Highlights

Seongsan Ilchubong Sunrise Peak 🔖

Udo🔖

Driving on a ferry to Udo
쇠머리 오름
Peanut ice-cream
Biyangdo 비양도등대🔖
Drama on island
Eat & Rest
a. 소섬빵 아잣시🔖
b. Ttittippangppang 띠띠빵빵🔖
c. 해신짬뽕🔖

🔖 Sunrise Peak Seongsan Ichulbong 성산일출봉 城山日出峰

You must catch the sunrise at Seongsan Ichulbong for 2 reasons!

It is very pretty.
The admission ticket office collection entrance fee only opens after the sun had risen at 7AM.

Point 2 is only applicable if you are already renting a car because public buses headed here only operate after 7AM.

Seongsan Ilchulbong is one of 3 JEJU UNESCO World Natural Heritage Sites along with Hallasan Mountain Natural Reserve and Geomunoreum Lava Tube System. I’m not one of those who would choose losing sleep over catching the sunrise, but the one at 성산 일출봉 is worth it.

Originally, Seongsan Ilchulbong was an isolated island, separated from Jeju by the sea and not considered part of the mainland. Over time, ocean currents deposited sand and gravel between the island and Jeju, creating a natural land bridge. Today, visitors can walk along this path to climb Seongsan Ilchulbong.

Unlike other 오름s (parasitic volcanoes) on Jeju, Seongsan Ilchulbong was formed about 5,000 years ago through underwater volcanic eruptions. When lava met cold seawater, it created a tuff cone, with volcanic ash and debris forming a conical crater. This unique formation distinguishes it from other volcanic features on the island.

Seongsan Ilchulbong is renowned for its breathtaking sunrises. The name “Seongsan” (城山) means “Castle or Fortress Mountain,” referring to the crater’s 99 rocky peaks, which resemble a fortress. Combined with “Ilchulbong” (日出峰), meaning “Sunrise Peak,” the name highlights its reputation as a place to witness stunning sunrises from a fortress-like summit where you can have a birdseye-view of the surroundings. Seongsan Ilchulbong was once covered in lush greenery and was referred to as Cheongsan (靑山), meaning “Green Mountain.”

There is an amusing legend that claims if Seongsan had 100 peaks instead of 99, tigers would have lived on Jeju Island. However, because Seongsan is short of one peak, predators like tigers do not inhabit the island.

?!?!? Make this legend make sense.

MAPS
Sunrise Peak Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map

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🔖 미향해장국 성산점

I wanted to have early breakfast away from Sunrise Peak.

I found Miyang Hangover Soup Restaurant that’s open early at 7AM and not right in front of a major tourist attraction. We drove there but it seems to be a 5-minutes bus drive from Sunrise Peak. Or taking Bus 201 or 211 is an option. Or you could eat at Starbucks right in front of Sunrise Peak carpark entrance.

The food at this soup restaurant is nothing spectacular but decent enough especially if you are into hot full-bodied soups.

1. 소고기 선지 해장국 (Beef Blood Curd Hangover Soup)
2. 소고기 우거지 해장국 (선지X) (Beef and Cabbage Hangover Soup - No Blood Curd)
3. 한우내장탕 (Korean Beef Tripe Soup)
4. 소불고기 뚝배기 (Beef Bulgogi Stew in a Clay Pot)

3 of us ordered each of the soup items except the one with cow blood.

선지 Blood Pudding

Koreans usually expect that cow blood is used for 해장국 (hangover soup) and pig blood is used for 순대 ( blood sausage).

But recently, pig blood has been increasingly mixed in, likely to reduce costs. Interestingly, pig blood clots are often more nutritious than cow blood clots, with significantly higher potassium content. If the broth of the hangover soup tastes like galbitang (beef rib soup) and the blood have a distinct, slightly metallic odor, it's likely cow blood. However, if there is no particular smell and the flavor resembles that of glutinous rice-filled Sundae, it's probably pig blood.

MAPS
미향해장국 성산점 Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map

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🔖 선미식당 Seafood Restaurant near Sunrise Peak

Another not bad, decent enough restaurant.

Usually I wouldn’t go to a restaurant right in front of a popular tourist attraction, but my party couldn’t wait to try seafood in Jeju, especially hairtail fish so here we are. I enjoyed the meal. The staff spoke Mandarin and the owner cooking in the kitchen were friendly. I don’t like fish so I wouldn’t know about the price to say if it’s value for money.

Those who are knowledgeable can refer to the reviews in the various maps below.

MAPS
선미식당 Seafood Restaurant near Sunrise Peak Google Map Kakaomap Naver Map

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🔖 Udo 우도

That’s Seongsan Ilchubong right above my head!

1.Driving on a ferry to Udo.

I have seen people bring their vehicles on ferries in real life and on shows, so I’ve always wondered how it’s done. I did not drive back then so I always have a 로망 about driving a car on a ferry. So I am glad I realized this experience. It seems that the Korean government has restricted cars in Udo due to congestion issues.

Here’s a video of me driving into Udo. The girls helped me get the ferry tickets while I was parking. They needed the car plate number and car type. The car permit was big.

I had problems reversing to my lot on the ferry and the ferry staff took over the wheels while standing outside the car. It was fun being a bimbo.

There are many rental shops for bikes and electric vehicles right in front of the port when you arrive. So no problem getting around. There’s a shuttle bus you can take too.

MAPS
Udo Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map

2. Soemeori Oreu 쇠머리오름 (우도봉)

In the fall of 2002, I followed my Japanese classmates to Jeju and Udo. I have next to zero idea about Jeju. I had arrived in Korea that year , barely knowing the difference between North and South Korea. 21 years later and wiser I am back in Udo.

I have very little memory of Udo 2002 except that it was a small rural island and the friendly grandpa and his friends that took us on his motorbike to a hill. I have good impressions of Udo though I don’t remember much of it. The fact that one has to go to Jeju to reach this pretty small island probably added to Udo’s charm.

Fast forward 21 years later in 2023 August, on a very scorching hot day after visiting Seongsan Sunrise Peak. I am back on this hill. It is called 쇠머리 오름 Cow head Oreum, a parasite volcano. Like all my favorite places in Jeju, it features the stunning coastal landscape under a bright, sunny sky with fluffy white clouds. The lush green grassy hilly terrain next to a vast blue ocean stretching into the horizon.

The sight is peaceful yet exhilarating and makes me feel I am a master and servant at the same time. Is it only 인프피 that feel like this?

MAPS
Soemeori Oreum : Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map

3. Peanut ice-cream

I am not too active online to know the trendy dos, but was informed by my younger companions, must eat peanut ice-cream at Udo.

The ferry ride to Udo takes about 15 to 20 minutes. After arriving at Udo Cheonjin port 우도 천진항, we drove towards the right. It was simply too hot so we stopped by 소섬빵 아잣시 for our morning coffee and heat respite.

We had a lot of fun eating the cheese pancake called 소섬빵 which literally means “cow island bread”. They also sell Udo peanut-flavored ice cream.

What’s the big deal about Udo peanuts? I googled.

In 2010, 24 years after Udo peanuts were first grown, Korea introduced its first peanut ice-cream that contains over 10% Udo peanuts.

Udo peanuts were first cultivated in 1986, with Jeju farmers focusing on developing unique characteristics to compete with cheaper American imports. By leveraging the island’s nutrient-rich volcanic soil, they produced peanuts so tender that they can be eaten with the shells.

Udo peanuts are the only peanuts in Korea that are this easy to eat with their shells. While the variety isn’t drastically different from regular peanuts, cultivation in Jeju’s nutrient-rich, fast-draining volcanic soil resulted in smaller peanuts with thinner shells.

It is said that peanut shells contain luteolin, a compound shown to regulate fat-related proteins, reduce weight gain, and prevent obesity-related complications. While tough shells from American peanuts are typically discarded, Udo’s thin shells allow you to enjoy both health benefits and all the earthy, nutty goodness.

After googling, I gained appreciation for 40 years of peanut cultivation and marketing.

4. Udo Biyangdo 우도 비양도

Don’t go to the wrong Biyangdo.

There are 2 islands named 비양도 Biyangdo in Jeju. Biyangdo in Hallim-eup and Udo Biyangdo. The Korean pronunciations are the same but their Chinese characters differ.

West Biyang (서비양西飛揚) refers to Hallim’s Biyangdo. West Biyang (西飛揚): “Soaring Island,” describing Hallim’s Biyangdo. The choice of the characters 飛揚 (Flying and Rising) for Hallim’s Biyangdo reflects the its legendary formation of a mystical island from northern China, captivated by the beauty of Halla Mountain, "flew" across the sea and anchored near Jeju. Source

I’m focusing on Udo’s Biyangdo.

East Biyang(동비양東飛陽) refers to the one in Udo. East Biyang (東飛陽): “Flying Sun,” referring to Udo’s rising sun. It is considered a Top 3 backpacking sites in Korea. The other 2 being Gureopdo Island in Incheon and Seonjaryeong in Gangwon Province.

I have no clue how these 3 places were decided but Biyangdo is famous for its magnificent sunrise view as its Chinese name implies.

While I did not camp there, I took advantage of the very low afternoon tide and took lots of wefies with its yellow and black colored lighthouse.

MAPS
Udo Biyangdo 우도 비양도 : Google Maps Kakaomap Naver Map

5. Incidents that happened

Incident 1 - Car

At Geommeolle Beach (검멀레해변), I bumped my rental car onto another rental car while reversing at the car park. I did not get to the beach as I had to settle with the other driver. Totally my fault at the crowded car park. The other car’s burly-looking driver gave off a Ma Dong-seok vibe, a bit like the 깡페 gangster korean mafia guy, but he was surprisingly patient under the circumstance we were in.

As I did not have a Korean phone number, he had to call Lotte rental car’s customer service instead. He was understandably irritated. I have seen, especially on TV, things escalate to high tension, but he tried his best to settle the issue amicably. We gave his child waiting in the car snacks, his wife was nice too.
So yeah, a pleasant encounter with a Korean man in an unpleasant situation.

Incident 2 - Lost Child

As we were driving to get to the port to depart, we saw a young girl fall from her bicycle. We stopped our car.

She’s separated from her younger brother and mother. They are Chinese tourists. She had scratches and even tore her clothes slightly. She called her mom but her brother was uncontactable as he did not have a phone. As fate would have it, the younger brother rode past us when we were about to leave. Wow.

The young boy was so naughty he cycled away from family and felt no remorse when he saw us. We took the two kids in our car, left the bicycle there, told the girl to take a photo of the street name for the shop and drove towards the port. The bicycle shop was nearby where they reunited with their mom.

Eventful day.